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Sometime before June 1992, I had heard about a brief study by a doctoral student, Reed Wadley, on the impact of roads in the area of Danau Sentarum Wildlife Reserve. My husband, 10-year old son, and I were headed up the Kapuas River to work in that area of West Kalimantan, Indonesia, and I had a clear plan to be on the lookout for Reed. After hours and hours of travel in an over-burdened speedboat, zooming around the Danau Sentarum Wildlife Reserve, in search of the perfect spot for a field center, our group of conservation folks arrived at the edge of the village of Lanjak, on the northern edge of the Reserve. In the process of reporting to the local camat (sub-district head), we encountered Reed--who was also excited to run into us.

He and I immediately hit it off and began discussing our respective plans for ethnographic (and other) research in the area, and how we might collaborate--as we sat side by side on the camat's couch. My most vivid memory of that meeting was when, for …